US Military Grooming Policies: Impact on Black Servicemembers

By Darius Spearman (africanelements)

Support African Elements at patreon.com/africanelements and hear recent news in a single playlist. Additionally, you can gain early access to ad-free video content.

Grooming Policy Shifts: Targeting Black Servicemen

The United States military has a long-standing requirement for male servicemembers to maintain a clean-shaven appearance. A crucial exception involves medical waivers, typically granted for conditions such as pseudofolliculitis barbae, or PFB. Recent policy adjustments, however, have significantly tightened or even removed these waivers, creating considerable challenges for Black servicemembers (Atlanta Black Star). This condition, PFB, disproportionately affects Black men and other individuals with curly hair. Consequently, the new rules are drawing sharp criticism for their perceived racial bias.

Dermatologists, medical experts who study skin conditions, emphasize that PFB is a genetic condition tied to the natural growth pattern of curly hair. They assert that it does not hinder an individual’s ability to perform their military duties (Atlanta Black Star). Still, critics and military veterans have labeled these updated policies as “targeted and intentional,” pointing out their outsized impact on African Americans. Furthermore, many view these changes as part of a broader push to dismantle diversity, equity, and inclusion, also known as DEI, policies across various federal government agencies (Atlanta Black Star).

Military Review and Policy Adjustments

Defense Secretary Pete Hegseth initiated a swift, forces-wide examination of various service standards. This review, ordered on January 1, 2015, covers fitness, body composition, and grooming regulations (Military Times). Officials have not yet provided a firm timeline for the review’s completion, leaving some uncertainty. The comprehensive review addresses numerous aspects of appearance, including the wearing of beards and other grooming policies (American Legion).

Currently, the Army, Air Force, and Navy branches still provide shaving waivers for servicemembers diagnosed with PFB (Military Times). This contrasts sharply with other branches. Nevertheless, concerns persist that the overall direction of these reviews leans toward stricter enforcement. This approach could ultimately reduce the availability of medical accommodations, further burdening servicemembers with conditions like PFB.

Marine Corps Rules and Their Impact

As of March 2025, the Marine Corps implemented a new policy that authorizes the separation of troops who experience PFB (Military.com). This condition, primarily affecting Black men, places significant strain on those affected. Marines battling PFB may feel compelled to shave, enduring considerable pain and permanent scarring. Many also consider laser hair removal as a more permanent solution. Unfortunately, this treatment is often inaccessible, especially for those stationed overseas (Military.com).

In addition to the geographic limitations, Tricare, the military’s healthcare program, does not currently offer reimbursement for civilian laser hair removal services (Military.com). This leaves affected servicemembers with few viable options. The Marine Corps frames this policy as essential for “maintaining high standards” and “discipline.” Critics, however, argue that it will damage retention and recruitment efforts, especially among Black servicemembers (Military.com).

PFB Impact and Prevalence

Pseudofolliculitis barbae, or PFB, is a chronic inflammatory skin condition primarily affecting Black men. This occurs when shaved hairs curl back into the skin, causing irritation, painful bumps, and discomfort (National Library of Medicine – Pseudofolliculitis Barbae). The condition is intrinsically linked to shaving practices, as cutting hair too closely to the skin can cause it to re-enter the skin, initiating this inflammatory response (American Academy of Dermatology – Pseudofolliculitis Barbae). PFB presents a significant challenge for individuals required to maintain a clean-shaven appearance, particularly military personnel, because shaving directly aggravates the condition.

Statistical data underscores the pervasive impact of PFB within the Black community. According to the American Osteopathic College of Dermatology, PFB affects a striking 60 percent of African-American men and other individuals with curly hair (Atlanta Black Star). Within the military, the disproportion is also evident. More than two-thirds of all individuals affected by PFB are Black or African American (Military.com). This prevalence highlights why Black servicemembers are uniquely vulnerable to the tightening of grooming policies.

Historical Context and DEI Programs

The military’s approach to grooming standards, particularly concerning facial hair, has historically fluctuated. Interestingly, medical conditions such as PFB, have allowed for beards in the past. This policy, originally introduced in the 1970s, reflects periods of greater flexibility. However, these rules have changed over time across various service branches (Atlanta Black Star). The recent tightening of these policies marks a significant shift away from previous accommodations.

Many critics argue that these policy reversals are intertwined with broader efforts to dismantle diversity, equity, and inclusion initiatives. DEI programs are designed to promote fair treatment, representation, and opportunities for all individuals, regardless of their background. When grooming policies disproportionately affect Black servicemembers, it raises concerns about their alignment with these fundamental principles. Air Force veteran Ed Anderson expressed significant concern that the new policy does not effectively support the retention and recruitment of troops, especially among people of color (Atlanta Black Star). This sentiment underscores how these policy changes potentially undermine efforts to foster a diverse and inclusive military.

Military Enforcement and Consequences

Enforcement of military grooming policies falls under the purview of the chain of command and military police. Servicemembers who violate these rules face progressive disciplinary measures, ranging from verbal counseling to non-judicial punishment (Military.com). For those who lose or are denied PFB shaving waivers and subsequently fail to comply with standards, the consequences can be severe. In serious or repeated instances, servicemembers may face administrative separation, leading to discharge from military service (Military.com).

The process for separation involves formal notification and opportunities for appeal. However, a discharge related to non-compliance with grooming policies can negatively affect an individual’s characterization of service and their eligibility for post-service benefits. Additionally, gaining a grooming waiver requires a formal medical diagnosis, often from a dermatologist, documented in military medical records (National Library of Medicine – Pseudofolliculitis Barbae). Recent policy shifts have made it harder to obtain such waivers, with stricter limits on their approval. The lack of medical access to treatments for PFB globally, especially in overseas deployments, further complicates matters, leaving many servicemembers without adequate solutions (Military.com). This places them in a difficult position, forced to choose between painful adherence and potential disciplinary action.

Policy Advocacy and the Path Forward

Various advocacy groups, including civil rights organizations and those representing military personnel, have voiced strong objections to the tightening of grooming waivers. These groups contend that such policies unfairly target Black servicemembers and demand revisions that consider medical and cultural needs (Atlanta Black Star). Some military organizations share these concerns, advocating for policy reconsideration to address issues of morale, recruitment, and retention. Lawmakers have also taken action, introducing or supporting measures aimed at expanding medical accommodations and opposing the rollback of DEI efforts (Military Times).

While definitive retention statistics specifically linking grooming policies to racial demographics are limited, concerns persist regarding their negative impact on Black recruitment and retention. Black service members make up 18 percent of all active-duty Marines, according to the Marine Corps Gazette (Atlanta Black Star). Despite this representation, current data demonstrates disparities in retention rates across racial groups, though it does not isolate grooming standards as a singular cause. Analysts are calling for greater transparency in data collection to fully understand the effects of these policies. The ongoing dialogue underscores the importance of balancing military discipline with inclusive practices that genuinely support all who serve.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Darius Spearman has been a professor of Black Studies at San Diego City College since 2007. He is the author of several books, including Between The Color Lines: A History of African Americans on the California Frontier Through 1890. You can visit Darius online at africanelements.org.